The City: Elena Kibalchich
Foreword
FIT graduate. Women's Wear connoisseur. Politecnico Milano + CSM attendee. Founder of GAMINE, unique prêt-à-couture eyewear. Fashionista.
Preface
That project was a part of my final project at FIT during my senior year of Fashion Design (Women's Wear). Each of us had to create one head-to-toe look from sketch to sewing; I made three. Unlike students from Parsons, we couldn't find any pattern maker or tailor on-site that could make clothes for us. We had to do everything ourselves – illustrations, patterns, draping, sewing. I got lucky to find a great young photographer Lucka Ngo who made a lookbook for me, and a model Maddy Welch who became a face of Chloé campaign. And, of course, one of the biggest influences for me was interning at Thom Browne, where I currently work as a production manager.
The collection Wild Man combines two dissimilar figures: Wilder Mann and Skinhead of 1969. Wilder Mann is a mythical half man and half beast; the defining characteristic of the figure is its wildness. That connection to nature's rhythms is rekindled during festivals that occur in Europe from the beginning of December until Easter when men start to dress in animal skins, lichen or straw, or tree branches. Half man and half beast, the wild man stands in for the complicated relationship that human communities, especially rural ones, have in nature. The symbolic death and rebirth of hibernation is a sign of the arrival of spring with all its plenty.
On the other hand, the collection has a link to skinhead subculture that originated among working class youths in England in the 60s. Named for their close-cropped or shaved heads, they were greatly influenced by Jamaican reggae, British Mods music and lifestyle. They were apolitical nor racists. Nowadays, this movement associates with aggressive behaviors, half man and half beast. My collection was influenced by the roots of skinhead subculture: working class outfits, celebration of reggae music, kissing in public, and no politics.
Wild Man / Kiss In Public
Epilogue
As a world traveler, I get my inspiration from things/people around me – I see different environments in each city, unique and specific cultural things. Like a sponge-like material absorbs water, I absorb visual context around me.
My goal is to protect women's body from men's eyes, yet attract them by showing some nudity – her arms, shoulders, legs, and strong silhouette. I want to make her feel comfortable in her own zone, but it's up to her to decide whether she wants to unbutton her garment or not.
Later on, after I released my collection, Lady Gaga contacted me asked if she could have some pieces for her upcoming tour.
Bibliography
Tim Walker's book that was accidentally presented to me by my super talented friend Natasha Sych is always on my desk
Japanese art, warriors, and Kabuki Theater
The City
Favorite thing about living in New York ↝ There is no fashion; it's all about personal style. Sure, there are some trends, but people are more creative than trends because they create their own unique identity that becomes their own lifestyle.
One thing you can't survive without in the city ↝ Brooklyn
Three adjectives describing New York ↝ Crazy, spontaneous, homey
The most inspiring spot in the city ↝ South Williamsburg // Greenpoint // Bushwick
Current obsession ↝ Pipilotti Rist: Pixel Forest at the New Museum // Black Mirror series by Charlie Brooker